Buttoning up leaks

I finished chinking. Yay. That was awful. The only thing left was a few knick-knacks to weatherize the whole thing.

Bird Blocks

We did a compound cap log on both sides of the house. These are the wall logs that the rafters rest on, and they hang way out over the corners to support the roof – which hangs almost 8′ on both ends past the log walls on the gable ends, and 4′ on the eave ends. This is the way to stop rain from getting on your logs – huge roof overhangs. I didn’t have any 60′ logs that were 12″ at the tips, so I used two smaller logs – faced the butts towards the ends, and just spiked them in the middle. (I wrote about installing them with ropes and pulleys here). I thought I could just follow the log line to install the bird blocks on top of them, but one cap log has quite a hook in it, and the bird blocking looks – well, not right.

My wife wanted me to straighten out the blocking there. Also, chink won’t stick to lumber, so the bird blocks get spray foamed to close in the gaps.

But even after spray foaming the blocks, they looked pretty ugly. I asked around for ideas – LarryNut suggested using some 2×6 T&G scraps, so I tried that:

Leftover 2x6T&G scraps to trim out the bird blocking

I don’t think I like it. My rafters aren’t perfectly square, so doing the Tongue & Groove boards doesn’t cover everything like I wanted. I think I’m going to just do trim like this instead:

From Rachel’s LHBA build: https://bieberloghome.blogspot.com/2012/02/on-we-go.html

Weatherizing the gable ends

Where the gables meet the logs is another place chinking won’t stick, so that gets spray foamed as well in the small areas. I’ll also spray it up into the area where the battens sit on top of the boards as well.

Completing the windows

I installed the window frames permanently back in this post, and temporarily pinned the windows in place with scraps until I could get the chinking done. I wasn’t sure if I should buy windows with a flange for my house or not. It IS “new construction”, but I’m not using conventional methods to build my window frames. A friendly guy in the parking lot of HomeDepot saw me pushing a cart of windows and set me straight when I explained my dilemma: for what I’m doing, I didn’t need a flange – he said just cut the flange off, set the window in the frame, shim it, spray foam it, and trim around it.

My steps for installing windows:

  1. Mark where the window will go before removing the temporary placement.
  2. Remove the temporary blocks and window.
  3. Install the outer trim.
  4. Set the window in place; shim it, and make sure it is level.
  5. Spray foam around the gaps between the window and frame.
  6. Install the inner trim.

I really like the big beefy 4×16 window frames I made. I bought a few 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ trim pieces, but quickly figured out it was much cheaper to make my own trim from a 2×4 and my table saw – I can get 5 pieces of trim out of a 2×4. The trim was about $3 – $4 each – so 5 of them would cost me $20. Making my own costs me about $7 (a 12′ 2×4).

Of course, there’s the pain of sanding and painting it:

…But I think it’s worth it.

Wood stove preparation

I also measured the height needed for stove pipe. One time, when I was incredulous about the price of a good saddle, an old horseman told me: “the horse is the cheapest part of owning a horse”. Same thing is true for a wood stove: the stove is the cheapest part of the wood stove. This pipe is going to hurt the budget.

Folks are saying, “just move the stove to where it won’t have to go through the second floor, or stick the pipe out a wall…” Trust me: I really do have a drawer full of 30 different floor plans my wife and I drew to figure this out: the stove must go where it’s going. Maybe if I build another log home, we could do it differently, but for this one, where the stove is on our plans is the best place to put it for our needs. Every other placement of the stove puts it in the way of something else.

From my research, you can use single wall pipe all the way to where it penetrates a ceiling, then you must use double wall pipe. My measurements indicate from the top of the stove to the 1st floor ceiling is about 6′. Then, from the 2nd floor to the roof is almost 15′. For that 15′, I have to use double wall pipe. Just some preliminary estimates show the cost is going to be at least $800 for the pipe. The stove itself was $100. It also looks like I have to box in the pipe with framing or something once I reach the 2nd floor because that area is considered “habitable” – i.e.: “not attic space”:

from: https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/pdf/Rockford%20Installation%20Instructions_3.pdf

I’m going to check with the fire marshal before I cut any holes or buy any pipe, but it looks like this is how I’m going to do it.

Next Steps

With the house sealed up, I’ll install a wall or two in the kitchen that will help us find the exact location to place the wood stove. I’m waiting for a callback from the building inspector, then I’ll buy the stove pipe pieces and install it.

I also need to get the stringer for the stairs cut out – it is either going to be a log from a new pile of logs my neighbor made me when he cleared his driveway, or Allen is going to bring me a walnut log down from TN the next time he comes down. It needs to dry a bit before I use it.

And I’m kicking around ideas for the 2nd floor railing- here’s one of my ideas:


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